To Torch Dry or Not to Torch Dry

[squibble]

I have tried many different searches and have not found any information on this.

Is anyone using a Blow Torch to dry up slabs between polishing stages? I currently use compressed air for this but it takes ages and burns my compressor.

We fabricate mostly quartz. My biggest worry with using the blow torch method would be shocking cold stone and creating a manufacturing Defect/Crack in the slab due to rapid expansion and contraction.

[Curtis R. Marburger]

yes we use big weed burner propane torch to dry prior to cleaning and sealing , to check stages of polish we use air hose

yes be very very carefully with Engineered solid surface , you scorch it that's permentant , there is few that can top polish a mud patty

I would not torch cold slabs ( below 35 degree's) of ES , would not surprise me it would shatter

[Jeff H.]

One mistake could be expensive Not worth the risk.

[Andy Ross]

I use a torch all the time on stone and ES. You do have to be careful with the ES. I also use air, just depends on whats closest to me. Air is actually faster IMO when drying off long runs of polish.

[Dan R.]

My question would be "why to you have to visually inspect it after every pad? " Seems like a waste of time for an experienced fabricator.

[ash20ash]

Maybe he is not so experienced? So he asks the question

Be very careful torching ES "Mudd patty" It will actually catch fire if you get it hot enough.

We used to use a tourch a bunch when I had a smaller compresor and no dryer. A real pain the ass to use a tourch all the time imo. Save up some coin and upgrade your compresor asap. If drying off an edge is working your compresor......your way under sized.

Also learn to "feel" the difference between grits with your finger. Even while wet and you will not need to dry off after each pad.


Dont take Dan the wrong way. He has a tons to offer. Just comes off an an ASS most of the time.

[Dan R.]

No offense meant at all.

1. The term blow torch is very specific and over kill for drying stone. Weed burner or propane torch would be a far better choice.

2. I would not trust a flame on ES from a person who is learning the properties of ES.

3. I would join suggest joining the SFA and get far more info on this and many other subjects in the member's area.

4. The "feel" will be able to be felt with the polisher as you gain more experience. Ash likes to to use his hand, a lot!

[Dan R.]

In the old days, we use to mark the entire edge with a crayon. When the crayon was completely off the edge, it was time to move to the next grit. Repeat process. It worked but needed to be managed a bit.

[ash20ash]

In the old days, we use to mark the entire edge with a crayon. When the crayon was completely off the edge, it was time to move to the next grit. Repeat process. It worked but needed to be managed a bit.

Great tip

[clhilde]

One place I worked used fast dry white paint to achieve the same thing black on light colors

May be a good way to train a newbie

[Andy Ross]

I still dry off stones that I haven't worked before or haven't worked in awhile just to make sure I don't have to do it twice. Usually after a 200 or 500 pad. Then I complete the polish. Yeah, it takes a little longer but its faster than starting over to get out the 50 grit scratches.

[Stone Dude]

just use your brain. Some stones don't like as much heat as others. If the minerals start to pop, it's not hard for one of them to land in your eye.

[VThartzog]

I try to "feel" the grits with my hand as I go and usually make one extra pass on 50-400 grits or as stated earlier, mark with a china pencil which will still mark on wet stones.

[topshop]

I have to agree with Dan about not needing to dry the stone between grits. One way to know if you are done with a grit is with experience you can feel less strain on the polisher but I also used to wear earphones and could actually hear the gear of the polisher not under as much strain which told me when I was done with a grit. Not a fan of the crayon or grease pencil method for edge or top polishing - wax alters a true polish of the stone and sometimes effects the color of the stone by getting that junk on the pores of many stones.

[ash20ash]

The wax is just a learning tool. Watch the slurry and the feel of the pad non the stone is the best way.

Or run an extra pass with the pad wet to dry so you can see pad contact better. Not good for the pads........but does teach polisher control .....

[squibble]

Thank you all for the wisdom and advice.

On the topic of polishing, we only do about 1-2 granite jobs per month. All our ES is CNC polished. We only hand polish to roll radiuses and touch up areas the machine can't get. We don't have a line polisher either. Can anyone recommend an old post that goes over polishing flats on mid to dark colour ES? I have heard that some experienced polishers can polish flats faster than the machine. We are still not experienced in this area as we have been lucky enough to have a solid machine and good tooling.

I still find polishing es by hand extremely tough. Let me know your thoughts.