Best way to build walls to support bridgesaw

[LEDJack]

Has anyone done this with steel or cinder blocks? I need walls for a CMS Gixa and I rent so I want to build something that is easy to take down (cinder blocks) or move (metal). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jack

[jbergman]

The first rule is to build a support heavy enough as to not compromise the saw, and that there is sufficient footing or slab thickness. Second rule is to make sure that it is relatively level. You will still have to do leveling, but the less needed the better. When I say leveling, I mean the saw rails as they sit on top of the walls. Using Hilti bolts is always a good idea.

I have seen hundreds of walls, some made from blocks, some fabricated from steel and some poured concrete, If you use blocks, make sure that there is plenty of rebar down through the blocks and into the floor, overkill is better than underkill. If the stand is fabricated, again overkill is better, and do not skimp on cross bracing. For many years I built large industrial machinery and machining work is usually more costly than a stone fabricator might figure. Its kind of like what a homeowner thinks a top should cost

John Bergman
Bergman-Blair Machine Corp / GMM USA
Prescott, AZ 86305
928-443-1100
516-381-6774 Cell

[Andy Ross]

I've done cinder block twice and it's the only ly time I've done block work. They look professional to me but I'm sure a pro would pick them apart. Rebar into the slab, go slow and be anal about plumb, square and level, fill the block with concrete when your finishing. And buy a laser level

[jbergman]

Everything Andy says is right on the money. I forgot to mention that you should fill the blocks.

John Bergman

[Omni Cubed Larry]

Back in 2002, I did the design and calculations for a steel bridgesaw frame on a big Italian saw.
The shop was planning on moving soon and didn't want to waste money on building a block wall.
They built the frame with their own labor then had it blasted and powder coated. It turned out awesome and was super stout. I think it cost them less than $5k for materials and other labor not including their own labor. It worked great, BUT steel frames (even stout ones) will vibrate especially when moving the whole bridge (on a heavy saw) and stopping suddenly. Depending on where you are located, you might also need to be sure it meets seismic requirements for equipment mounting according to AISC (American Institute of Steel Construction). Like I said, the saw was pretty heavy, so I used a W12x53 wide-flange I-beam.

Unless you have welding skills and a place to buy steel I-beams at a decent price, you may want to stick with blocks. That is unless you know you will need to move the saw sooner than later.

Join SFA, you won't regret it.

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[Andy Ross]

I'm sure Larry's steel is a sufficient solution but I think I spent less than $800 on block, mortar, rebar and concrete. So if moving is of concern, cinder block would still be far less expensive than steel support in my opinion... You just have to do it twice

[Omni Cubed Larry]

Yes, totally agreed Andy. The blocks for this wall would have only cost about $500.
The concrete $200-$300 give or take. Then add rebar, mortar, and labor. Even if you pay someone else to completely do it for you it would cost less to do the block wall. Back then, the quotes they were getting were pretty high and it still made sense to them. They knew they were going to move it at least twice as they were growing rapidly. And I think they ended up moving it 3 times in the following 4 years. It probably still cost them more in materials, but the moves were easy and downtime was minimal.

[Andy Ross]

There's definitely something to say for ease and speed of move.

[JOHN_T]

If you go with blocks make sure you vibrate concrete as you fill blocks makes a big difference and no hollow spots

[LEDJack]

I want to thank everyone for the helpful replies. I am waiting on 1 last quote from a concrete company and then will look at the suggestions from the group.

Larry did the steel frames you had manufactured cause a problem when cutting or just when the saw was moving?

Thanks, Jack