SFA

Newbie here, hey just checking with some of you on how you leather granite?

Do you guys use the antiquing brushes only or ? I have a Jet stick & was wondering if I use that to blast the surface first & then use the brushes, if that would cut time & create more of a textured finish? or has anyone ever tried that.

Also do you guys feel the finish you do is comparable to the factory finish?

what kind of time do you feel it takes to leather a slab & how much per ft or???

Has anyone ever looked into use their CNC equipment ti do any leather finishing??


Thanks for any input.............

Stoneman,

Go up to your User Control Panel and fill out your sig so we know who we are talking too. I have no problem answering your questions once you do this and really only in the back room. Alot of pricing and detail is only discussed back there.

I will say that if I had a Jet Stix, well it would be alot of fun!

I have one,somewhere... (never used)

PM sent Dustin!!

I didn't get it. Also again please go up to your user control panel and fill in your sig.

Thanks.

I have a customer that sandblasts the slab first but I don't reccomend it because you can't control the blowouts. I would have the same fear with torching. Besides, the new diamond wire brushes are so aggessive it's not worth the risk.
You could use a CNC but it would take forever with a 5" snail lock head. The best way is with a radial arm machine with a 17 or 20" head and multiple brushes. Almost any factory finish can be achieved but it takes practice to learn when to switch grits. Your depth should be set after the 36 and 46 grits, everything after that adds color and definition. If you have a radial arm machine it can be a real moneymaker. The going rate here is $250.00 for honing a slab, $350 for repolishing or book matching and $450 for leathering. You can also add a polish to the leather finish for a richer look. That is called a "carress" finish.
I hope this helps answer your questions.

That's exactly what I was looking for Adam T, I sold a radial arm polisher just because I never used it,(Damnit) but I do have a 3 head orbital polisher! How do you think one of those machines would work??

of course I would much rather the customer purchase mt already lathered, but it just seems in our area there's not a big supply of it, but its becoming a much bigger demand.
one more question, do you leather the slab or do you cut the job and leather the pieces needed for the job??
And thanks for the reply!!!!!!!!

Either way, some smaller pieces are easier done as one larger piece.

I have leathered using the 3 head Samich machine and it comes out nice. If you want deep texturing, add weight to the machine. It can also be done on a cnc with a plate attachment and frankfurt brushes.

For added depth, I would suggest running the lower grit (cutting) brushes an cycle.

Brian Briggs wrote:I have leathered using the 3 head Samich machine and it comes out nice. If you want deep texturing, add weight to the machine. It can also be done on a cnc with a plate attachment and frankfurt brushes.

Hey Brian, I have Quota in my shop that I really only use for drain boards & was hoping to put it to use for somthing like leathering or?? Like mentioned above they say it takes forever, is that your feelings as well??
will you be at the stonexpo?

Hey Stoneman

Who are you?

Please fill in your signature..its easy

Yes, I will be at Expo. To date, I only know of people with Northwoods antiquing on their CNC. However, I do not see why it could not be done on any CNC machine. The only real variable I see is they type of spindle. I am unsure if the various spindles will have shortened life through the abuse of a 10" to 12" head attached. We will be demoing hand held machines antiquing and I am sure we will be doing it with the Samich machine as well.

I antique on my intermac.

Thanks Boyd for the lessons on how to do that.

Mike, what spindle do you have on your intermac? I was told I didn't have the right spindle on mine to use it??? Now that was someone who would not benefit from me using it as they would benefit from a different system, though...

The hsd electro thingy. Standard one.

Boyd taught me how to do it. If you're interested, call me at some point to chat about it.

To do it right, it takes a long time...but it does allow your intermac to at least be doing something!

Another option is to modify a floor buffer. You need a flat surface to set the slab on. It is easy to put Frankfurt brackets on an old 17" buffer head. The floor machine is worked just like the radial arm with the bonus that you can add weight as needed.

Thanks Mike! You may have just given me reason to get that thing fixed back up for operation!

Great point Adam. I forgot about the floor machine.