Need help getting the "slab shop" side of my business going

[Tim W]

I own a tile bullnosing shop in the springs that has been around since 2002. We have done many slab jobs over the years, but just recently I have started investing again in the equipment needed to produce 8 kitchens a month with a 3 guy shop.

So far I have:

(1) 30' Bovone Stone 7 (six figure italian inline edging machine - mostly used for tile currently)
(2) Aard-wolf full size Trestle tables (great for holding a hole kitchen, and giving you easy space for sink holes, cutting and what not.
(1) Aard-wolf a50 slab clamp
(1) 98 Clark 3500 pound lifting capacity, truckers mast, LP forklift with treaded warehouse tires (2300 hours)
(1) Galeski 80/20 cat contour machine with all the sink and flat polish wheels
(6) Misc. variable speed wet and dry angle grinders and polishers
(3) Alpha profiling wheels (ogee, demi & full bullnose)
(6) cup wheels
(~650) polishing pads
(25 clamps)
(1) Aard-wolf transport cart
(1) Aard wolf metal aframe
(10) Large wooden A-Frames of various sizes
(1) LARGE (120x120") flat work table outside.
(2) Rail guide system
(1) skilsaw worm drive saw
(1) smaller handheld slab saw
(3) tile saws including 34" bed imer and a 52" bed felker (felker has seized motor)


Here are my problems:
-My shop ceiling height is low, 13' ceilings max, so thats why I bought a smaller forklift.
-I have one bay door to get material in and out, but it doesn't have a "driveway" it is just crushed asphalt my dad placed
It is definitely not the material a warehouse forklift should drive on, and I'd like to be able to take my forklift outside (the half of my business lot that is opposite to the loading dock (bay door) is all asphalt.

I have full slabs for kitchen jobs I need to unload, but am unsure if I'd be able to have a pick up truck back up to the bay door, and then just use the adjustable boom and stretch it out say 85" to reach the slab on the pick up, but I don't think my bay door is high enough (it is 11 feet max).

So my idea is to get everything paved properly, but since I do have a budget, I want to stretch my dollars as much as I can, so any advice from anybody in regards to getting the slab side of my business running as a functional, well oiled machine, would be appreciated. Pics of the shop

[Tim W]

Notice the slope leading up to the bay door /loading dock door. It is big pieces of crushed and compacted asphalt, but would prove to be a bumpy ride (and potentially dangerous?) ride with the forklift.

I have three options: Keep the forklift always inside, if unloading from a truck that way is even possible due to our height restrictions

OR

Keeping the lift outside always on the flat asphalt, and then doing all listing, moving and cutting of full slabs outside

OR

Have a nicely sloped concrete driveway poured, which depending on how much I spend, will either allow me to take the clark forklift 20x12 feet outside of the building, or 40x12 feet outside the building with an additional 30x6 foot sidewalk that would connect the driveway to the asphalt.

I was quoted $1800 for a 20x12 driveway including everything (heavy equipment breakup, sub material, compacting, forms, rebar, & pouring) or $3900 to have a 40x12 driveway poured with a connected 25x6 foot "sidewalk/forklift road"

Are those good prices for concrete, or would I save a lot to do it myself with some paid help?

Keep in mind I want to get the slab side of the shop capable of doing 8 kitchens a month with 3 guys ASAP. The tile bullnose just isnt cutting it anymore that I have a child, wife, condo, rv, cars, etc. need to up my income.

Looking out our bay door / loading dock

Outhtebaydoor.jpg (46.24KiB)Viewed 1129 times

Our inline machine

bullnosemachine_op_558x600.jpg (35.8KiB)Viewed 1129 times

[Tim W]

Here's a picture of my forklift. Hopefully you guys think it is good enough for moving 128x55" 3cm slabs short distances.

I included a picture of the forlifts tires


The picture I included of the front of the shop but on the office side, is to show the asphalt. So if I have the concrete done all those sunflowers and slabs and stuff will be moved, and I'll just have a bunch of concrete to be able to maneuver the forklift on and also unload and load semi trucks with tile bullnose.

Please tell me if I'm thinking this all through correctly, and what you'd recommend on a tight budget?

Front of the building - part of building with flat and relatively smooth asphalt

frontofbuildingwithasphalt.jpg (138.27KiB)Viewed 1127 times

Tread of the forklifts tires

forklifttire1.jpg (69.88KiB)Viewed 1127 times

Clark Forklift

forklift1.jpg (32.39KiB)Viewed 1127 times

[Curtis R. Marburger]

Green Forklift Attempts To Lift a Slab of Granite

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mS_D6mNZHoo

[Tim W]

I assume that with a tilting table I can safely load and unload slabs without that happening? My forklift weights 6500 pounds and is rated for 3500 pounds at 24"

[Mark Meriaux]

Safety is key here. Slabs are heavy and dangerous. Your assumption could be fatal.

The weight rating drops as you add an extension boom (necessary to lift slabs).
3500lbs at 24" drops to 1750lbs at 48", and is only 1167lbs at 72".
Most 3cm granite slabs weight 900+ lbs. Your forklift will end up looking like the one in the video if you try to start/stop on an incline.
You should have a 5000lbs (minimum) forklift to safely handle slabs, IMO.

Another note in your post referred to wooden A-frames. While many here have probably used them at one time, they deteriorate in the weather and should be avoided for storing full slabs. Please consider investing in properly rated metal A-frames.

The concrete prices you posted seem very fair and something best to be left to those professionals. If you try and mix or pour your own, it could cure incorrectly and crack or fail under the weight of your forklift.

Consider an SFA membership and visiting a nearby SFA member shop. Most will help you or at least give advice to keep you and your employees and customers safe. Good luck.

[Andy Ross]

You have more than i started with and we did 8 ish a month. Just gotta figure out how to work it.

I have 13' ceilings and they are plenty high enough.

Definitely lose the wooden anything that holds stone. It will fail.

[kevinp]

I have a 4500lb forklift. When the engineers calculated the loads and the boom length it barely, I mean barely is big enough when the boom is as short as possible for lifting slabs. The 3500 lb would be dangerous.

[Curtis R. Marburger]

There is so many ways to do a set up like yours , but it is best to discuss in members only section . 250 bucks is a small price to pay. It is for your own safety and privacy to discuss things in members only section. There is a wealth of knowledge here to learn from and we all have paid the price to learn it.

[luke getz]

definitely go with a larger forklift. we have a 4000# forklift and I would not go any smaller!

[Tim W]

I'm highly considering trading it up to a bigger lift. I think I got a good deal on it, it literally has 25xx hours on it and starts right up. At least,..I think I got a good deal.. Paid $1,500 cash for the lift.

Anyways, there are two, nice cushioned tire mid 90s clarks I have my eye on in Denver. (brand new cushion tires with lots of tread - way better then the old warehoude tires on my lift)

Anyways one is 4500 pound, side shift, auto, 3 stage height for $5500 (not including my trade in)

The other, which I am a little more interested in is another green Clark, 5,500 pound lifting capacity, manual transmission, 10 years older then the above unit, but runs excellent (no side shift and it's "only" stage 2). They want $6,000 for it.

I'm leaning towards the 2.75 ton lift (5,500#).

I am trying to get $3k on my forklift trade in if I offer to pay off the difference in cash.

What's the consensus on these two clarks? Next post will include pics of them.

[Tim W]

5500# Clark lift LP ($6,000)

clark2.jpg (98.96KiB)Viewed 949 times

4500# Clark lift

clark1.jpg (95.89KiB)Viewed 949 times

$5,500 on the newer clark.


Which unit seems nicer for the price? I'm trying to find time to test drive them both. The 4500# clark is 3-stage and a bit newer. The 5500# Clark is older and 2-stage but seems very solid.

What do ya'll think? Are these good deals?

[Andy Ross]

3 stage is noce for unloading trucks. My next one will definitely be three stage. I would get the heavier one, especially if you are driving on inclines.

There has never been a time where i thought, "man i wish i had side shift." But im sure if i had it, i would use it.

[Curtis R. Marburger]

neither one , I like that yellow Clark with larger tires in fore ground of picture , something like that with larger tires looks to be 7-8 k pound's

[ash20ash]

Do not try to move a slab with you current lift. It will be bad for sure.

Get at least a 5,000 lb lift

Welcome to the SFA.

[GuyboR]

There has never been a time where i thought, "man i wish i had side shift." But im sure if i had it, i would use it.

We will never buy another one WITHOUT side shift.
Putting slabs in pin racks or on and off A-Frames, the side shift gives you versatility without having to "move" the actual forklift.

Bigger tires are a necessity, especially if there will be ANY inclement weather (ie...snow).

[luke getz]

I love side shift. we are looking for another forklift, and I would definitely get it again. as guy said, it helps to be able to side shift when you are picking up slabs so you can actually lift it straight up instead of dragging the slab sideways and then lifting. it may not seem like that much of a difference, but if you are dealing with stone that is fragile, or scratches easily, it can make a difference.

side shift also helps when trying to get in and out of tight spots with skids of tile or slabs.

[Andy Ross]

There arent any tight spots at your shop luke

[luke getz]

There arent any tight spots at your shop luke

yep, we have more room than we know what to do with....