Fixing a Seam in Caesarstone

[hakenate]

I have heated up seams in the past in order to remove pieces, but I haven't re-done the seam. We glued a seam together the other day, it did not come out perfect. I want to heat gun the seam, then put on our seam setter and re-work the seam. My question is will the resin re harden after i break it loose? I was thinking of drilling holes under it, through the sub top and injecting resin under it to hold it in place, and then top dress after things cure again. SO i guess my question is will resin re harden, and cure again, after it has been heated and cooled back down. Thanks in advance!

[SbergeronMG]

I'm sure guys from tenax could answer that with more detail and more scientific reasoning.

But no it won't cure back you will only alter the composure of the resin itself, once the hardener react with the resin there's no turning back.

We usually break the seam completely, clean all three glue in the seam put it back together and don't make the same mistake

[Andy Ross]

The glue is a chemical reaction. It would be the equivalent of trying to unburn a piece of wood. Once it's been burnt you need to get new wood. you need to get new glue. Follow Sebastian's advice

[Alex_Bores]

I'm sure guys from tenax could answer that with more detail and more scientific reasoning.

But no it won't cure back you will only alter the composure of the resin itself, once the hardener react with the resin there's no turning back.

We usually break the seam completely, clean all three glue in the seam put it back together and don't make the same mistake

My question is what glue did you use?

Correct, the glue will not re-cure unless it hasn't fully cured to begin with.

[Dan R.]

Alex is correct. The glue will re set if it was not fully cured the first time. I suspect it was fully cured and you will have to remove the old glue to re set properly.

[Eric R]

No, the resin will not re-harden again.

Also, heating the resin up to the point where it weakens enough to separate the seam damages it. It will never be the same strength again. Depending on what type of resin it is, the resultant breakdown of the resin due to the heat will vary.

I used to do a lot of Corian and I remember a scientist in one of our certification classes discussing MEC glues along with polyesters and he explained that once you hit 160* the glue has lost 80% of it's holding strength. Which is precisely why we use heat to break them apart.

One last side note. Seams always "break" best when pushed from the bottom upward as it doesn't compact the upper leading edge (causes chipping). This will give you the best chance of keeping that edge nice and sharp and will help make the re-set seam all that much nicer.

[Joe Little]

The ones we have done , we raised up the tops , then shim up one side , leaving the other off the cabinets , then heat and use a rubber mallet tapping the overhanging end , usually pop really clean and since its falling away , has always left a clean top seam , no chips.. razor BLADE AND RE-SET

[ashshutze]

I haven't popped a quartz seam loose with heat. I would be concerned about resin expansion and exposing the quartz/glass/mirror fleck in the material. I've always scored the seam with a razor blade while soaking it with acetone. Then taken some razor blades and tapped them into the seam, then shimmed the top up and then tapped on the top side with a rubber mallet lightly.

[Kowboy]

Too much trepidation heating estone enough to break a seam for me. Run a Festool rail saw with a new diamond blade down it for a dust-free cut. Yeah, you'll have to freehand the last 4". No one will ever know.

[ChrisGraham]

Too much trepidation heating estone enough to break a seam for me. Run a Festool rail saw with a new diamond blade down it for a dust-free cut. Yeah, you'll have to freehand the last 4". No one will ever know.
[

Fuktard...

I would use a heating strip from Granquartz. It's a drum heating strip if you can source that locally. Clean all existing epoxy off maybe scuff the edge with some sand paper and clean with acetone. And start fresh.

[BellaTerra]

Lots of great help in the members area about this exact situation. Great advice in there without the half-baked hair brain ideas.

[steven nenzel]

Why is it that we are all having to break quartz seams? Rarely did we ever have to break a natural stone seam. QUARTZ SUCKS!

I was talking to my Arizona Tile rep yesterday as we are having issues with some quartz and he said they have never had a fraction of issues with natural stone that they do with quartz.

If you have expectations of making all seams in quartz near flawless.... think again! I'm in the process of making up a disclaimer regarding seams in quartz. Our's and our customer's expectations need to be lowered... unfortunately.

We are on our 4th slab for one job (2 slab job) trying to get the seam flat. The last one cracked where we undercut.

[T.J. Henderson]

Steven,

Can you be more specific on how you under cut the seam??

We too deal with the flat issues on Quartz all the time. And in cutting has been something I have considered but was worried about a potential cracking issue

[ChrisGraham]

I think if you score cut it to try and make it bend your asking for trouble. The Quartz everyone is fabbing currently is a polymer based product. Quartz has always had resin in it but with a shit ton of actual Quartz too. This solid white and marble mimicking stuff is nothing more than a hard cultured marble.
Facts on resin. The more saturation of resin versus filler. The more the product shrinks. The more it shrinks the more it may possibly bow. Fast ran production that's not allowed to cure properly flat and is say set on a a frame. Will contour to that shape/cure in a bowed form. The only way to rectify a bowed polymer material is with slow heat. And not too hot heat either. That why the boiling hot water is used to bend Quartz. It reheats the molecules in the Quartz to the point they don't loose there integrity but yet just change shape. There's a whole lot of science that goes into it. But I would say it's only going to get worse as far as crappy Quartz. Best case scenario. Lower your customers expectations on the feel of their Quartz seam. Tell them we will make it invisible but your gonna feel it. Protect your self.

[steven nenzel]

T.J. we undercut the underside with groves about 1/2" deep to help bend the quartz. We also applied heat and the crack occurred as the quartz was cooling.

Chris, how do you get a white quartz seam to disappear when it is not flat? We end up with a grey line caused by the ridge.

[Kowboy]

Too much trepidation heating estone enough to break a seam for me. Run a Festool rail saw with a new diamond blade down it for a dust-free cut. Yeah, you'll have to freehand the last 4". No one will ever know.
[

Fuktard...

[

Hey Sugar Sweetie:

Try reading, comprehending, and obeying the rules you agreed to:

"Members will encourage the contributions of others and shall conduct all business and work with fairness and respect to all concerned.
Members will maintain a proper sharing attitude.
Members will not be combative, unruly, or disrespectful to each other or the general public."

[Alex_Bores]

Why is it that we are all having to break quartz seams? Rarely did we ever have to break a natural stone seam. QUARTZ SUCKS!

I was talking to my Arizona Tile rep yesterday as we are having issues with some quartz and he said they have never had a fraction of issues with natural stone that they do with quartz.

If you have expectations of making all seams in quartz near flawless.... think again! I'm in the process of making up a disclaimer regarding seams in quartz. Our's and our customer's expectations need to be lowered... unfortunately.

We are on our 4th slab for one job (2 slab job) trying to get the seam flat. The last one cracked where we undercut.
[

You are more than capable of getting seams to be close to invisible. See the picture here from Nick from Deluxe Granite in Tucson has nailed the process so have many others. So many things you can do to get a perfect seam
1. Clean clean clean
2 porcelain razor blades don't have oil on them
3. careful from wiping the lettering of the backside to the seam
4. Seam Phantom
5. multibond
6 clean clean clean (like cleaning grout wipe once and flip)

Im sure Nick can be asked what they do!

[steven nenzel]

If you can get then slab flat you can get near perfect seams... we know this. The problem is when you can't get the slabs flat.

[hakenate]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I didn't think it would be the secret. The seam is almost perfect. If the homeowner says anything about improving it I will be breaking it completely and re setting it. Thank again. Glad to find this site.

[Jonathan123]

Where do you buy porcelain or ceramic razerblades for the white quartz?

Ive checked everywhere

[wkluender]

Amazon has them.

[Jonathan123]

ive looked on there cannot find. Would you be kind enough to put a amazon link

[Jonathan123]

my computer skills just surpass an ape :)

[Eric R]

Here it is;
https://www.amazon.com/Slice-Utility-Re ... azor+blade

The good: They don't mar white quartz. They last a long time.

The bad: They are not very sharp. You have a not so sharp razor blade for a long time .

I looked at buying them in bulk to put in the FillaChip Master kits (specifically to use on white ES), but I never found a way to make it feasible. It's easier to buy them here if you want them.

[Jonathan123]

Thanks!