Crumbled granite at inner sink edge with rusted rod

[pdp]

Hello all-

I have a rusted rod that caused a small amount of granite to crumble into sink as the rod is visible at the inner edge of the sink. I live in the Philadelphia suburbs and have not found help with rod removal and repair. I would prefer to remove the rod from below and expoxy the damaged area rather than putting in a farmhouse sink. Does anyone know of a person in my area who can help? I saved the pieces that fell out.

My zip code is 19382.

[Greader20+]

Im in Atlanta but will travel for the right price. I love the Jonquil granite or Normandy I cant see it that well.

[pdp]

How would you repair this? Would the repair last? Someone in my area said it was difficult because the rod is at the edge.

[Kowboy]

How would you repair this? Would the repair last? Someone in my area said it was difficult because the rod is at the edge.
[

I would drop the sink, remove the cabinet front, and remove the rod. The rod absolutely, positively, must go; there is no permanent repair with the rod in place. With the rod removed, I'd pop a backsplash to get some matching repair material. If none were available, I'd move the sink forward. I'd recut, re-profile, and re-polish the sink cut out to make a larger positive sink reveal; the flange on the composite sink should be wide enough to allow this. There is no need for room for clips on the front rail, because I'd strap the sink back in place; the superior method. This repair would be permanent and inconspicuous. Were you local to me, you'd have to budget about $1,500.00 for this repair. The sink would be back in full use in one day.

I'd have a 33" x 22" Elkay ELG13322 in the truck just in case the damage was too severe and the flange was too small. I know that sink's getting undermounted beautifully. Budget another $500.00 if it's used.

http://www.elkay.com/elg13322

If you give me the dimensions of your sink base cabinet, I can give you some suggestions as to some suitable undermount apron front sinks, should you change your mind. With the large "swoop" in the back of your sink, you're probably not getting a stainless steel apron front sink without customization. 3K.

P.S.:

I'd rattle the cage of the original fabricator if the hack is still in business. This is 100% fabricator error.

[Modern Mom]

PDP, I asked the granite company that pulled my rod and fixed the crack if he happened to know anyone in Philadelphia. Chris (the owner) mentioned that he happens to be traveling to Philly tomorrow for a work-related event. You should contact him asap if you are still looking for a contractor. The firm is Virginia Stone Restoration. They did a great job.

[pdp]

Modern mom : Thank you! I will call him and see what I can do.

How do I find a fabricator otherwise in my area? I called one local stone store and was given major attitude about not wanting to take on liability for this repair. Thanks for giving details about what needs to be done kowboy!

[pdp]

kowboy or other SFA members: do you know anyone who might know someone who does this kind of work from NJ/Pennsylvania/delaware - I am close to all of these areas.

Kowboy: any interest in visiting Philly??

Modern mom: I called and left a message for Chris. If you know a direct way of reaching him let me know if ok w him. Will let you know what happens.

Do I need to worry that there are rods all around the sink?

[pdp]

Another question: would I need to replace the faucet to have a longer reach then? What about the faucet and dispenser holes?

Where do I find someone to customize my sink if I need to change out the sink?

I have spoken to someone in FL who makes custom overmount sinks: Rachiele; for granite cracked areas but would I still need to remove the rusted rod if I am covering the area completely?

Still unsuccessful in finding a fabricator to help with this project.

[Kowboy]

Another question: would I need to replace the faucet to have a longer reach then? What about the faucet and dispenser holes?

Where do I find someone to customize my sink if I need to change out the sink?

I have spoken to someone in FL who makes custom overmount sinks: Rachiele; for granite cracked areas but would I still need to remove the rusted rod if I am covering the area completely?

Still unsuccessful in finding a fabricator to help with this project.
[

You don't necessarily have to replace the faucet. If you installed the Elkay I suggested earlier, your faucet would mount on the deck of the sink instead of the countertop. The Elkay has pre-punched holes. You just tap out the ones you want.

For sink alterations, I've developed a relationship with a local metal fabricator. These guys aren't cheap, but they've got the "I frickin' dare you to find that weld" attitude. They are correct; you will not find their weld. Those are the guys you want.

Dino Rachiele makes some of the finest sinks in the country or even the world, however, he charges accordingly. We've met. He's a great guy and I would do business with him without reservation.

If you install a Kohler 3942, which is an apron front drop in, you don't need to pull any rods, however, if you install an undermount apron front, the rod ends exposed when the opening for the new sink is cut have to be ground away and filled. This isn't a big deal.

There may be additional rods around your sink, however, if they show no signs of failure and the new sink is waterproofed and strapped in place, there is no need to worry about them.

I would drive to Philly, but the drive time and expenses make it very difficult for me to be competitive. But that's not my call, it's yours.

[Kowboy]

PDP, I asked the granite company that pulled my rod and fixed the crack if he happened to know anyone in Philadelphia. Chris (the owner) mentioned that he happens to be traveling to Philly tomorrow for a work-related event. You should contact him asap if you are still looking for a contractor. The firm is Virginia Stone Restoration. They did a great job.
[

Pictures, please.

[pdp]

Modern mom: Chris did get back to me so thanks for showing him my photos.

I did save the chunks that fell out to help with the repair. I don’t have a backsplash to use.

Kowboy: If I do the top mount apron front sink it looks like I will need to find someone to weld the faucet component. That sounds difficult to find. Are there other models of sinks that have a faucent part that is wider to cover my back curved part After being cut out. I am assuming I will need. Longer so the reach is not as bad that

[Kowboy]

Kowboy: If I do the top mount apron front sink it looks like I will need to find someone to weld the faucet component. That sounds difficult to find. Are there other models of sinks that have a faucent part that is wider to cover my back curved part After being cut out. I am assuming I will need. Longer so the reach is not as bad that
[

The Kohler 3942 is an apron front top mount that requires no alteration to cover your cutout. You only need to customize a Kohler 3943 if it's being undermounted in a cutout that exceeds 19" or so from the cabinet front.

[pdp]

Kowboy- can you advise further?

do the kohler and elkay both need to cut out the front granite.

I measured my underneath sink cabinet- it is 33 inches wide. Counter edge to edge sink cut out depth is 22. So which sink would work best if we need to cut out. Why use elkay over kohler models you listed.

How long do rusted rod removals and granite repair typically last? Thanks

[Kowboy]

Kowboy- can you advise further?

do the kohler and elkay both need to cut out the front granite.

I measured my underneath sink cabinet- it is 33 inches wide. Counter edge to edge sink cut out depth is 22. So which sink would work best if we need to cut out. Why use elkay over kohler models you listed.

How long do rusted rod removals and granite repair typically last? Thanks
[

Yes, any undermount apron and/or top mount apron style sink requires the front of the granite and cabinet to be cut. An undermount or top mount sink does not require the granite or cabinet front to be cut.

Unfortunately, the Kohler apron fronts require a 36" sink base cabinet so you're 3" too short. The Urban Place RZS3300 and the RZS3350 (www.chemcore.com) are 33" apron front sinks, however, although I've installed three, I've never had either altered for a faucet deck. At 22", even with a 2" overhang, you're going to need a faucet deck welded on.

When the rod is removed and the sink is properly strapped in place, rod repairs are permanent.

Here's the 3300 in solid surface:

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Tip to retrofitters: Measure your new cutout from the cabinet front, not the top overhang. Don't let the other guy's varying overhang keep your apron from touching the cabinet. Customers can live with a little deviation on top, but the reveals had better be near perfect and the apron has to touch the cabinet.

[Voges23]

Kowboy,
What do you do in the case of not being able to slide the flange between top and cab? Assuming a slight shim, has the stone ever cracked on you?

[Kowboy]

Kowboy,
What do you do in the case of not being able to slide the flange between top and cab? Assuming a slight shim, has the stone ever cracked on you?
[

No top shimming, please. Cut the cabinet sides with a Rotozip so the sink slides in after you've popped off the cabinet front. The missing 2" or so of top cabinet is irrelevant if you strap your sink in place instead of using clips, because you're "replacing" the cabinet sides with 9" of vertical stainless steel sink sides.

I finally ran into a modern cabinet front that wouldn't tap off without splitting the other day. I just backed the screws out of the center cabinet style and rail, Rotozipped the top of the cabinet side styles enough to accommodate the sink flange and mount, slid the sink in, and the apron on the sink covered the cabinet damage. I reinstalled the center style and rail after the sink was in place:

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By the way, that sink does not exist from Kohler. It's a 3943, but I've had the faucet deck welded on by a local metal fabricator. It's the only solution if they've got a "swoop" on one side that's deeper than 18 1/2" from the cabinet front. I'd tell you how much I got for this job, but you wouldn't believe it and Dan would delete it anyway. Even at $500.00 for the sink and $500.00 for the metal man, I'm still much less than top replacements. And the sink is spectacular, not the garbage many give away for free.

I'll have done one of these a month for the last 4 months when I pick up my next one this week. I've got a 5th for a rod repair, but the customer is still in price denial. I probably won't get that one until his handyman's "repair" blows up within the year or so.

Yes, I have cracked stone during a sink replacement, but that was because I was too stupid to check for and remove the blocking that held the cast iron sink in place before I beat the sink to death. It patched up nicely though:

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