Seam cleanup cnc

[63Amherstdale]

Does anyone have any recommendations for tooling on a cnc to get razor sharp straight and or euro seams on the cnc. Trying to achieve perfect seams coming off the machine so we do not need to seam phantom. Is it as simple as just to reserve a pos 1 and 2 Z wheel solely for seams? Thanks in advance.

[Joe Durfee]

Pos 1 & 2 from a Z profile, then 2 electroplated Z tools (I get ours from Terminator) will yield seams sharp enough to cut yourself on when you run your hand on the edge.

[Joe Durfee]

Pos 1 & 2 from a Z profile, then 2 electroplated Z tools (I get ours from Terminator) will yield seams sharp enough to cut yourself on when you run your hand on the edge.

[STEVE NY]

POS # 1, 2 and 3 Z wheels and then we do a 4th bit that is a worn out POS #1 that runs a 1/4" high and stops short of the finished edge that slightly rebates and roughs up the seam edge for a tighter seam and superior glue bond.( mimics a seam phantom)

[gssfabrication]

Hi,

Just like Joe and Steve, we run ADI's Z30 Pos 1, 2 & 3. The trick to keeping them just like you first set them up is to make sure Pos 2 & 3 are taking off the minimum amount to remove the lines from previous position.

Once you get them dialed in its just a matter of how sharp you want the seam edge to be if you want to run electroplated Z wheels after position 2 or 3. We have been really happy with the consistency of the edge from the Position 3 so we have stuck with that. I have heard of shops making them sharp enough to practically shave.

Dress as needed to keep lines from showing up on the profile. Steve has a good point to run a worn out Position 1 0.25" high to rough up the edge. Presumably his programmer is leading it in and out of the middle of the seam to the beginning and end of the seam are just as tight/sharp as the top. I have thought about getting a Ninja blade and setting it 0.5" high and then oscillating in the XY direction similar to what the polishers do in the shop to cut the grooves for more adhesive in the seam and better bond. Running out of tool holders on the CNC is now the issue!

Oh, one last tip on the Euroseams. We were doing a 2.5" radius off the corner with 2.5" where the euroseam straightens out (90 degree to the wall) and the S/E at the front was leaving just a little lip where the two S/E of the euroseams met(2.0" radius at the corner). Fixed it with doing a 2.5" off the corner and 3.0" radius where the euroseam straightens and have not had an issue since.
See my crude ASCII drawing below.

               3.0"-----------------------------------
              /
            /
------2.5"
  2.5"\|
       |

Rick Graff.

[63Amherstdale]

Thank you all for the terrific feedback!

[T.J. Henderson]

Oh, one last tip on the Euroseams. We were doing a 2.5" radius off the corner with 2.5" where the euroseam straightens out (90 degree to the wall) and the S/E at the front was leaving just a little lip where the two S/E of the euroseams met(2.0" radius at the corner). Fixed it with doing a 2.5" off the corner and 3.0" radius and have not had an issue since.
See my crude ASCII drawing below.

3.0"-----------------------------------
/
/
------2.5"
2.5"\|
|

Rick Graff.
[

I just got a headache from reading that. More coffee.

Same as everyone.

We use our gauging tool (created as a separate tool) to do the roughing/glue pocket.